THIS IS PETHRILLA
January, 2018
Lithuania is that small Country that was occupied by the Soviet Union at the end of the Second World War, and it finally gained the independence in the year 1991. You probably learned these facts in school, but have you ever heard of the Lithuanian fashion? Have you ever seen the name of any famous Lithuanian designer?
Thanks to figures the likes of VETEMENTS Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, and many others who, like Ukranian designer Natasha Zinko, Hungarian designer Zsigmond Dora or Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy, have walked catwalks of recent fashion weeks, the Eastern European fashion has recently gained a new importance.
As to Lithuania, the Country annually hosts the fashion event MADOS INFEKCJA, and, up until 1995, another one called Your House where every year young talents display works to the local - and at times international – audience.
The lack of closeness with the Western, mainstream fashion has been for the Country a significant issue, for it has never given local brands the chance to shine under the limelight and be worldwide renowned. On the other hand, it was also a blessing, as it allowed artists such as the ones from fashion group Aiste Nesterovaite to develop their own, unique flair.
An incredible example is Vilius Pethrilla.
Born in Vilnius, the young designer has started his career with a lot of energy and a compelling personality that allowed him to create collections for what is now a year and a half.
When he was only 14, Vilius started creating clothes for his closest friends, while always remaining an independent artist who consistently refused to work for any other company. Pethrilla currently owns his brand, which he named after himself, and the 16-years-old designer, who humbly defines himself as “not part of the fashion industry yet”, has exposed his shows in important venues from the very beginning of his career. He hosted his first fashion show in what he describes as “the best venue in the whole Lithuania,” LOFTAS - a non-profit cultural centre based in an old factory of 29, Svitringailos road, Vilius.
Over the last year and a half, Pethrilla has collaborated with several artists, including rapper Anxious Kiddo, DJ TOP GOLFER, and DJ CALVE SPRITE. Vilnius talent recently led him to be asked to create garments for an upcoming movie, while he also prepares himself to work alongside another rapper on a show that they are due to host together next year. For privacy issues, the artist couldn’t give any further detail on these upcoming projects.
- Do you think that the limitations to the fashion industry during the Soviet occupation (1940-1991) still affect the Lithuanian fashion industry?
Of course, they do, and reasonably so. When post-soviet fashion first appeared in Lithuania, and people started wearing post-soviet inspired outfits, the Lithuanians were scared of it, because they brought back such horrible memories. As it usually happens with the history of a Country, the event has profoundly influenced our industry: for instance, if you went outside wearing a VETEMENTS sweater that has soviet symbols, or a Гоша Рубчинский t-shirt with a communist flag you would get a fine.
The simple action to show anything that could bring back memories of the Soviet occupation would most likely make people denounce you to the police, and this has modified fashion over the years, too.
- Do you agree that fashion should suggest and include any political or social messages to its audience?
It depends on the designer. I don‘t see fashion as just clothing. We are people, just as much as we are art. Clothing and make-up let us decorate ourselves and make the creation even better. Fashion should be about everything the creator wants it to be, also if it‘s a political message, a part of history, or a vision of how he sees the future.
- Basing the answer on your own experience, would you agree that Lithuania is a good Country to start a fashion brand?
People do enjoy what I make, so I guess it‘s not the most hostile place to start your own company. Also, a small percentage of the young people is looking forward to the Western Europe, but the vast majority of them find their unique style, which is very helpful for the success of local brands. Anyway, I did take a few orders from people outside Lithuania, so I wouldn‘t consider my work to be settled here.
- How would you describe the fashion industry in Lithuania for as much as you’ve experienced to this date?
I am optimistic about it! To this point, I always found that anyone is beneficial and opened to meet young creative designers. I was also positively surprised when I noticed that a few of my favourites from the Lithuanian fashion industry such as KREMER support me.
- On a more personal level, how has the career you recently started changed you so far?
Right now I feel a bit more motivated day after day. Every time I spend a day doing nothing I get a bit mad at myself and I try to push myself and be more productive. I know I have my objectives to reach, a mission to accomplish. On a personal level, I get to feed my ego whenever I go to the city centre, and I get to see someone wearing clothes I made: it just makes me feel euphoric. Apart from the thrill and the enthusiasm, though, I can‘t see any other way it changed me, and I kind of hope it never will.